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Off Grid Solar Power: 4 Charge Controller and Batteries

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19 replies on “Off Grid Solar Power: 4 Charge Controller and Batteries”

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You should seal your battery connections with liquid latex. $5 bottle of liquid electrical tape will help a lot. Looks good though!

Why did you chose the 6v 350A Batteries? Why not 12v 700A Deep Cycle Marine batteries.? I need 100KW/day Avg power. Can I get that from a Solar system like yours or do I need a whole field of Solar Cells?

So I am looking at using solar on my homestead and I’m just in the planning phase for everything right now and I need some help with the math… Based on my electric bill I use on average about 1500wH’s per month which is about 50wH’s per day. So could I get by with may 250wH system? How do you figure all of that?

you are correct, i know alot of people who think it is fake. Listen, i’ve been getting paid about $200 a week just selling energy. I took the idea and plan of here. you can also try it: ABOUTSOLARCELLS.COMXA.COM

Its immaterial since we cannot go to 48V. The inverter is 24V input, and we cant move the larger batteries into our shed. So your point is moot. And our neighbor just retired 11 year old L-16’s. It can be done.

well if you went to 48V then you would only need 700Ah…pounds of battery is pounds of battery, just in how you configure them. I wish you luck in getting 7-10 years of life from parallel strings of L16s

Good question. The panel wiring was much easier at 24V, as was the inverter wiring. But also if you go to one string, you have to get big batteries that will get to my desired 1400 Ah rating. To go one string I would have had to go with a 1400Ah 6V x 8, and those batteries are simply too heavy to get to my shed and then into the shed. The technology is advancing rapidly, so I hope to do that in the future, but will stick with 24V.

why not go to a single series string 48V battery setup? Much easier to maintain equal battery charge that way.

High voltage is good, because P=U * I (Watts)
Heatloss in wires= I^2 x R = I x I x R = 2 x I x R (Watts)
R = Resistance in conducting material
I = Amperage
U = Voltage
P = Power
So we want to limit the current I (I=Amps), since it’s the biggest factor of heat losses which can be prevented the easiest.

Hope it helps people 🙂

Ok.. You claim you are not affiliated with power4patriots… But, I looked at 3 of your videos, and all 3 have a link to power4patriots in them. Where I come from that is called a lie.

I know what you mean by turning folks away if it gets to be over kill. I think what you have is great as far as being off the grid system. I have family out west that have lived off the grid since the 70’s but they have all the modern conveniences. They live off a gen set but at night it goes off before they go to bed. For me being a grid dweller it was fun like camping and it was more relaxing not having stuff going 24/7. I would someday love to be off the grid.

A lot of people would say that is indeed science 🙂  I know how it works but don’t want to get too technical, or people tune out.

Stumbled on this video. I know most all you discussed here but just wanted to say you do a very good job explaining in detail about how a solar set up works..Good video

Their is nothing scientific about dropping voltage from a high voltage. What you get is more current. Low voltage high current. High voltage hence the low current. Power lines use this method tell they get to the transformer where the transformer take the high voltage and drops it down and brings up the current. Look at the wires coming from your panels they are small low amperage battery bank high amperage. So what you have is a step down inverter transformer in your controller. Hope this helps

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